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Serbian Nights

By Tracey Davies

Deep in the depths of South Eastern Europe, hiding under Hungary, crouching behind Croatia, lies what’s left of the former Yugoslavia, Serbia and Montenegro. To many, Serbia conjures up images of either war torn newsreels or at the very least cheesy ‘La La’ bands from recent Eurovision years. But six years after the devastating NATO bombings Serbia has picked itself up once more and dusted its knees. Now in 2005, Serbia’s arms are open and we are welcomed in to see another side to this post-communist Balkan bolthole.

Since the break up of Yugoslavia, Croatia and Slovenia have reinvented themselves and have become tourist destinations in their own right. Serbia meanwhile, has had its own problems, and has since been reacquainting itself and its people and is finally enjoying being free from a communist regime. The first thing you notice about the Serbs is their friendliness and lust for life. When you walk through the main streets of Belgrade, you don’t see the long faces of post-war citizens, you see a happy, modern community. Vast, umbrella-laden pavement café’s are filled with beautiful locals (rather than tourists), laughing, drinking spoon-bendingly strong coffee or for the more hearty, Sljivovica, the local plum brandy.

I arrive dressed in a cloak of preconception about both the country and its people. I was expecting resentment, for good reason, for being British, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. Welcomed with open arms and the traditional three kisses, the Serbs are some of the friendliest Europeans I have ever met. This nation is excited about its future and is far from the sullen, anti-western reaction I was expecting. Most folk relish the idea of mass tourism, which although would be great for the economy and the country, I hope would not have an adverse effect on its charm. Serbians are not the money-grabbing tourist vultures that you sometimes find in less-wealthy places; they are proud of their country and take pleasure in welcoming people into their home.

Belgrade is an interesting capital to visit and highly recommended for a weekend city break. Not only would I say it has some of the best nightlife in Europe, certainly at the cheapest prices, but it has a lot to offer in daylight hours too. The city is split by two rivers, the Danube and its tributary, the Sava. Old Belgrade to the north has a ‘baroque meets bloc’ mix of old and new buildings. To the south, New Belgrade is an evolving business district, sprouting company HQ’s and international hotel chains.

Kalemegdan Park is a great place to start. The panoramic views of the city are superb and at the heart, the convergence of the two rivers enables me to get my bearings in this vast sprawl of a city. The park sprawls over thirty hectares and houses the Kalemegdan Fortress and Military museum. The disused tanks and armoury in the grounds evoke a jolting realisation of how recent some Serb history is. The zoo and the Arts Pavillion are also popular attractions of the park.

A highlight of Belgrade by day is a visit to the Royal Courts. The Royal Family are now based back at the Courts after being extradited to Britain for many years. We make a grand entrance through the parade of horse-chestnut trees dripping with rhubarb-coloured blossom, a welcome trace of colour on this overcast day. The Courts are very palatial albeit in a somewhat miniature form. Alabaster exteriors are filled with the Masters and some exquisite eastern European antiques. It is jam-packed with European art, all with a story, from the famous Rembrandt that Mira Milosovic hid behind a door to the beautiful Canaletto which became a famed photo-backdrop for visiting dignitaries.

After a skinful of culture, it’s time for a beer. A good area to people-watch is Belgrade’s bohemian quarter, Skadarlija. A place for the local artists and literary crowd to hang, drink coffee and look beautiful. There is a host of street cafes and national restaurants in this area, most with resident gypsy bands which enhance the bohemian feel.

Belgrade is known for its party-loving locals, and to grab a taste of how the Serbs socialise we visit a few of, what’s known as ‘underground bars’. When Milosovic was in power, many entrepreneurial Belgraders set up bars in the front rooms of their homes, so they could enjoy a Sljivovica or two with friends, away from the watchful eye of the government. There are probably 20-30 of these bars around Belgrade, the whereabouts only known by word-of-mouth. We visit the World Travellers Club, a bar hidden in the basement of an unassuming apartment block in the centre of town. Descending down the steps in an unmarked building in a strange capital is slightly unnerving, but as soon as we enter through the red velvet curtains, I find myself in a hybrid mix of Moroccan Kasbah and my grandma’s front room. Gorgeous young men (rather than old ladies, thankfully) in long cream Arabian robes, pay ego-puffing attention to my alcoholic needs.

The venues to visit are largely determined by the hour of the eve. Serbs rarely hit the bars before 10pm, and all depending on where’s in vogue to where is busy. We head out what is known as Silicon Valley (Strahinića Bana). It is named not for its technology but for the hordes of surgically enhanced ladies who frequent the dozens of contemporary bars in the area. Again, it’s a great place to people watch, with most bars the seating (some say viewing platform) stretches out on to the wide, tree-lined streets.

This area tends to wind down around 1 – 2 am when most head out to the river bars and nightclubs to disco down ‘til dawn. Clubs such as Aundergraund (Pariska 1A) and Mondo DC (Takovska 34) are some of the best in Eastern Europe attracting top international DJ’s. For the river clubs, take a cab (no more than 300 dinar) down to the banks and follow your ears.

The exchange rate is currently around 120 dinar to the pound and about 80 dinar will get you a beer and 200-300 dinar will get you a decent Margarita.

The food is exceptional and the prices still communist. One I heartily recommend is a restaurant called 3Anlet, the menu is modern European with a Serbian twist. With prices starting at 120 dinar for a mozzarella and cherry tomato tart appetizer to 600 dinar for a fillet steak that Gordon Ramsey could not swear at, in fact it’s fair to say, 3Anlet offers Ramsey quality food at Ronald McDonald prices. The ambience would not be out of place in Covent Garden and the service by some incredibly beautiful boys was spot on.

But Belgrade is not the only gem in Serbia’s crown. Only an hour away is the province of Vojvodina and its capital, Novi Sad. With a slightly slower pace, Novi Sad is proud of it second capital status. Currently the city on many folks’ lips as it is home to Exit, the honey of European music festivals. For five days in July the city is over taken by music-hungry youngsters from all over Europe. Set in the grounds of the awesome Petrovaradin Fortress on the banks of the Danube, it is a perfect spot for some festival fun. Tickets are the ridiculously low price of forty euros for the whole five days, and a camping pass is just ten euros. With a line up including Fatboy Slim, Garbage and the White Stripes it is only a matter of time before Exit seriously rivals some of its bigger European counterparts.

Novi Sad is a worthy city to visit at anytime, although if you want to keep your eardrums intact, I would suggest avoiding it during Exit (usually first weeks in July). The shopping district is pedestrianised and can offer some good local bargains. In the arches of the fortress are local artist studios, where they live, work and sell their wares. Some is very much for the visitor market, but you can pick up some real gems at a fraction of the price you would in a gallery.

City life aside, there is also the natural appeal of Serbia, with the vast Danube river running the length of the country, piercing many National Parks along the way. The Pannonian plain in Vojvodina has wetland areas which attract record species of birds and twitchers every year.

Serbia holds great appeal for all, from the city-breaker to the naturalist. Visit it for its friendly, spirited people and its organic diversity. It is exciting to see that after years of obscurity, Serbia has a future and we have a great country to visit.

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