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Swept Away by Sardinia

By Tracey Davies

My eyes close in languid protest against the radiant sun, the waxed wooden deck warms my bikinied back and lazily I rock with the gentle bow of the ketch, lulling me towards a drowsy haven… and they call this work! Here I am just over two hours away from the drizzle of Gatwick, on the Italian isle of Sardinia. Once, the kept mistress of the European elite, now with the opening of EasyJet’s new route to Olbia, Sardinia has opened its doors to the oh-so-grateful budget traveller. This glorious island is now accessible to all within hours of our doorstep. Perhaps it’s time for sun-blessed destinations such as Sardinia to rival the city break market?

With sea the colour of a seventies cocktail, I feel like I am floating in a punchbowl of blue Curacao and I am the pink umbrella. Here we are bobbing several nautical miles off the east coast resort of Cala Gonone. It’s Saturday morning and I’m soaking up the sun on the Dovesesto, a replica 1918 ketch, once owned by the Fiat family. Between the beautifully restored vessel and the happy go-lucky, tobacco-brown crew our every need is taken care of, whether it be freshly plucked and shucked oysters for lunch to pouring a chilled glass of rosé as an early afternoon aperitif. This really is the way to spend a weekend.

Cala Gonone is a small fishing village cum holiday resort in the Dorgali region of Sardinia. Throughout the height of summer this pretty harbour town is overrun with holidaying Italians. They flock to this serrated coastline enticed by secluded coves of bleached white sand and sensational 360° views of the mountains, rock face and the sea. Locals and visitors alike are attracted to the cavernous appeal of the Grotte del Bue Marino, with its vast, echoing chambers and centuries of geological history. The Guy Richie film, Swept Away, starring Madonna was filmed off these shores, the natural beauty of the area a perfect backdrop for the desert island fantasy. Although popular in the summer season, for a more tranquil time visit in either May or June or late season, September and October, where the temperatures are a perfect early twenties and the ambience is chilled.

Staying at the charming Hotel Pop, named after the popcorn Grandpa sold in the sixties, this alabaster cool hostelry has both the best views and the best food in town. A family run hotel with just sixteen rooms, all overlooking the harbour and the Bay of Orosei, with waters so clear they must surely flow direct from the Indian Ocean. The never-ending feast served at Hotel Pop was some of the finest seafood I have ever tasted. For waistline reasons only, I am thankful that I am only here for a weekend. Crispy discs of Sardinian flat bread known as carta di musica, ‘music paper’, accompany huge platters of anti-pasti; ruby-red carpaccio of beef layered with shards of parmesan, slivers of seared fresh tuna and swordfish with lemon and garlic. Followed by trays of char-grilled lobster which is so fresh, I swear I saw them crawling up the beach before hurling themselves on to a plate of spaghetti. This meal alone is worth flying to Sardinia for.

Just 50 minutes drive from Olbia airport, Cala Gonone is the prize after successfully contemplating a hair-raising series of bends descending towards the ocean from the rocky plateau.

Overlooking the toy town harbour, an echoing chink of contented vessels fills the air. The main drag consists of a handful of three and four star hotels, gift shops, bars and gelaterias. The local restaurants tout their wares with smoky wisps from fresh seafood on hot coals.

Out of season, this quiet, somnolent seaside community offers tranquillity and escape for its visitors. Wandering around its balmy streets, I feel like I have arrived prior to the party, but have been welcomed in with open arms and canapés. The early evening entertainment came in the shape of two swarthy types ‘apparently’ offering a budgie for sale. Deciding to opt for the more traditional Sardinian souvenirs of pottery and jewellery, I was able to use my one and only Italian phrase; “Nessun grazie, che non desidero comprare il vostro budgie”, “No thank you, I do not want to buy your budgie”.

The Caribbean-esque ocean and its catch draws the summer hordes to Cala Gonone. Blessed with clear safe waters and a shoal of private beaches, the best way to explore is by hiring out a boat and escaping the world for the day. Around 100 euros will get you an easy to pilot motor dinghy which comfortably seats six to eight people. Hotel Pop offers day trips for around 60 euros per person including lunch. Diving is also popular in this area, as is mountain biking and free-climbing. The fearsome rocks that guard the coastline encourage hardcore adrenaline addicts to scale the steely veneers. From our buoyant sun trap, we spot some ‘enthusiasts’ nearing the peak of one face and only just remembered not to wave at them!

Our Queen of the seas, the Dovesesto glides with barely a sound, tracing the coast southerly towards the port of Arbatax. In the dusky light, the dock seems desolate and far from the picture postcard tumble of Cala Gonone we left behind. We turn a corner and the beautiful bay of Porto Frailis opens up before us. Perched on the far edge is Hotel La Bitta, daubed with the brash colours of Moroccan influence, Hotel La Bitta is a comfortable four star pad with stunning views and good facilities including a health spa. With the majority of rooms offering sea views, the crescent bay with clear shallow waters and fine, beige sands meant the idyllic infinity pool was barely used.

Sardinia has more to it than great beaches and cocktail-coloured seas, a surprisingly rocky interior hide self-sufficient mountain villages at dizzying heights. Driver, Raphael expertly manoeuvres our trusty minibus up the Golgo Plateau, where we are overtaken by brave mountain-bikers dressed in Lycra. In the heart of the Olgliastra region is home to herds of wild donkeys, frisky in the heat. As the plateau levels out, we arrive at an agri-tourism restaurant Ristoranti Golgo, a cool retreat from the blazing sun. We are shown into a long, white barn, basically furnished with mile-long oak tables. Luckily, dodging wild donkeys has built up quite an appetite as a lengthy feast ensues. Rustic platters of anti-pasti, salami, parma ham and marinated zucchini, mushrooms and olives, are followed by tortellini with bolognaise sauce and a heavy-handed scatter of parmesan. As if this wasn’t enough, the main dish arrives, spit-roasted suckling pig and hunks of flame-grilled beef. This traditional shepherds feast is not for the faint-hearted (or the vegetarian), and washed down with some robust Sardinian red, I am sated for a week.

Flying to Olbia with EasyJet proved a pleasant and painless experience. For around the same time it takes a train from London to Birmingham, but with finer views and a guaranteed seat. Birds-eye views of Sardinia are truly breathtaking; the coastal sands are highlighted in aqua-marine forming a ‘Ready-Brek’ ring around its jagged gem shape.

A short break in the sun, for me, has proved as beneficial as a week. Couple this with the low price and short flight time and sunshine breaks in Sardinia are more accessible than you may think. So go, soak up the sun, paddle in the clear, clear seas and feast on the freshest seafood in all the land, all for the price of a weekend in Bruges.

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