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Is this the way to Abama-rillo?

By Tracey Davies

Tenerife, once the honey of the Nineties, when everyone and their grandmother came rushing to the black sandy isle seeking fun, sun and the promise of a traditional full English. Although still popular with winter sun seekers, over the past few years Tenerife has been overshadowed by the club cult status of Ibiza and the family focused, celebrity bolthole of Majorca. Only four flying hours from a year round perfect climate and home to a new elite resort, Tenerife is ready to take the reins of popularity once more.

High upon the volcanic slopes of Mount Teide, a man-made plantation is brimming with 100,000 fully-fledged palm trees, each preened and polished and destined for a lifetime of glory and admiration. These sturdy, wild-haired fellows will graciously line the pathways, decorate the golf courses and spend their days mingling with the privileged guests of Abama, an exclusive five star deluxe hotel, golf resort and spa for which they are intended.

Oh no, not another European golf resort, I hear you golf widow (ers) say. Yes, but throw in a Michelin starred executive chef, exclusive designer shopping, horse-riding, tennis lessons, island-hopping helicopter excursions and an exquisite well-being spa. Set it all to an ‘Arabian Nights’ backdrop with a dusty-red citadel, served by an impeccable cast and you will have Abama, Europe’s newest elite tourist destination.

Opening July 2005, Abama is the creative concept of Tenerife’s Mr Big, Javier Bernal, backed by Grupo Tropical Hoteles which has as its President, Ignacio, son of Jesus De Polanco the renowned Spanish media tycoon and owner of top newspaper El Pais.

On this fine March day, the temperature is a comfortable 20 degrees, and as the patient palms are poised, awaiting their final stand, I look down over three and a half kilometres of perfectly coiffured greens and mirror-still lakes to see the powdery coral-red of the fort shimmering in the distance. Dave Thomas, four times Ryder Cup player, whose creative accolades include one of Britain’s finest courses, The Belfry, takes all the credit for the challenging design of the professional 18 hole course.

The hotel is born from the exuberant mind of architect, Melvin Villaroel. Inspired by our Moroccan neighbours, the whole place has a distinctly Arabic feel. From its rich, earthy shades, to the extravagant and stylish suites, set within the roaming walls of the citadel.

Originally from South America, Villaroel, has already made his mark on the island with his pioneering design of the Hotel Jardin Tropical. I am staying at this impressive cave-like palace, built in 1987, when it dominated the Playa coastline. Jardin Tropical is one of the oldest resorts in the region and since then, the ‘Daddy’ of Tenerife hotels has quietly watched while the once sedate port town has grown into the lively, lager-infused location we all know and (used to) love.

The Jardin Tropical has Villaroels’ characteristic Moorish influence. Chalky aspirin-white warrens roam over five floors interspersed with fragrant, bougainvillea-filled tropical gardens and calm, tinkling water features. Bringing the outside in, makes the hotel feel spacious and open yet, it’s easy to find pockets of privacy and seclusion. The whole design is timeless and eighteen years on, the hotel leaves many of its younger compatriots in the shade with both design and popularity.

Being a foodie, I love to embrace a countries cuisine, and here in Tenerife I am not disappointed. Dining at Jardin Tropicals’ El Patio seafood restaurant is a pure delight and as far away from the McBurger emporiums of Playa de las Americas as you can possibly get. El Patio is set on the edge of a cliff overlooking the infinite blue of the Atlantic Ocean. The gentle salt-tinged breeze enhances the Mediterranean feel and only encourages my ferocious appetite.

Sated by the eight plated tapas appetisers that Spain is renowned for, with lightly tempura-d octopus and squid, sea-fresh tuna salad with rich flavoursome olives and saucer sized slices of succulent ruby red Spanish tomatoes and colossal, butter soaked garlic prawns. We move on to the main dish, a baby-shark sized, salt encrusted sea bass. Served by the maitre d’, he flamboyantly wields the steely knife before cracking into the salt tomb of the bass. The result is a delicately flavoured fish which is simply divine.

The fish I could happily eat alone, accompanied only by a glass of chilled Vina Sol, arrives with papas arrugadas, salt dusted new potatoes, which deliciously defy all health advice and my favourite Canarian treat, Mojo Picon & Mojo Verde, garlic-based pestos infused with either paprika to give its vivid crimson state, or coriander for its green, both are colourful and piquant and the perfect compliment to the soft, pale fish.

As if nine courses were not enough, for dessert I am encouraged to try the leche frito, directly translated as fried milk. Served with palm honey and vanilla ice cream, it is far nicer than it sounds. Warm, crispy batter encases soft vanilla custard. For me it’s the new Brown Derby (Wimpy circa. 1978) and if it graces your menu, do try it, its delicious.

My lunch companions are couple of ex-pats who are clearly besotted with this voluptuous volcanic isle. They speak of it knowledgably and fondly as their home and rarely refer back to Blighty. Both are excited by the arrival of Abama, and the status that it will bring Tenerife as an elite tourist destination. Not only will it encourage more visitors to the island, but with Abama hosting the European golf tournament, Open de Canarias, in October this year, it will win Tenerife a well-deserved place on the worlds sporting calendar.

We drive to the airport, warmed by a weekend of very welcome Mediterranean sun. A local English radio station twitters in the background, with Tenerife’s version of Su Pollard, gabbling inanely over one-hit wonders of the Eighties. I sit back and reflect. Tourism in Tenerife is on the cusp of a new era and is about to change dramatically. It’s an exciting time for this black-beached isle, and with the opening of Abama this year, Tenerife is well on its way to catching up with its Balearic brothers. Who knows what the fun-loving, sangria supping fans of Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos will make of their new neighbour.

Only time can tell what the next few years will bring to this ‘island of the eternal spring’.

Contact Tracey Davies

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